Adventures at Smitty’s Written by Climbing on August 31st, 2010

(that’d be Smith Rock by Redmond, OR to anyone who isn’t in the know 😛 )

I’ve been climbing out at Smith a bunch this year – enough that I should’ve bought the dang State Parks Pass already, because I’ve paid for it twice over in day use fees! This has definitely been one of my best climbing seasons to date!  For years I’ve been borrowing the Smith guidebook from friends and holding out from buying it, because of Alan Watts’ promise of a new edition. Well, it finally came out and it was SOOOO worth the wait!  It is very thorough, with the hundreds of routes that were put up in the last decade, color pictures of most every wall, and lots of new info on bouldering that I am looking forward to exploring.

That said, I’m more of a sport climber and have relished the opportunities to get out and try out tons of new routes this spring and summer.  New walls too, like the Llama Wall just to the right of the Phoenix area – somehow I’d never made it out there till now.  Llama Enlightenment was a really fun route and the crux of Llama Sutra had me stumped but I hope to get back on it soon and show it who’s boss…

My gear’s held up really well this season with exception of my rope, which just had to go.  I’ve been using friends’ ropes in the meantime, but I’ve ordered a Petzl Nomad which I can’t wait to try out when I get it. I wonder if the drop from my usual 10.5mm to its 9.8 will be felt on my next project…

Till next time,


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